For my son, Adam, and me, fall is the season for our almost annual surf and turf, which is loosely described as an overnight paddle trip combined with a mountain hike or hikes.
Past trips have included Moosehead Lake and Mount Kineo, and Attean Pond and Sally Mountain. Last year, Tunk Lake and Black Mountain, part of Donnell Pond Public Lands, was the choice.
Donnell Pond Public Lands consist of more than 14,000 acres of remote forested lands located in Hancock County. Several secluded lakes and ponds are surrounded by rugged scenic mountains. Numerous campsites are established on the lakes and ponds and a network of trails lead from the campsites over and around the peaks.
In short, the preserve is an outdoor paradise.
Most of the campsites can only be reached by water, making the area ideal for a surf and turf. For those uninterested in paddling, a few hiking trails can be accessed by vehicle.
This year, we decided to paddle across Donnell Pond to a basecamp for a climb of Caribou Mountain. Our tentative plan was to ascend nearby Schoodic Mountain the following day and then paddle out.
For us, good weather is a requirement for a surf and turf. We identified a late October weekend with seasonably warm temperatures, light winds and sunny skies.
We met early on a Saturday morning at a boat landing at the end of Donnell Pond Road in Franklin on the western terminus of the pond. The campsites are available on a first-come, first-served basis so an early start is important. Camping is far more popular during the summer months and demand decreases in the fall. We were optimistic since no one was at the landing when we arrived.
The tiny rustic landing is only wide enough for one vehicle, but there is a spacious parking area nearby with a toilet.
Although some participants have brought canoes in the past, Adam and I use sea kayaks on surf and turf trips. We unloaded kayaks and gear before parking our vehicles. As we were leaving, two people arrived to remove a moored motorboat, but still no competition for sites.
The paddle east across Donnell Pond was nothing short of glorious. The pond was mirror calm, the sun was shining and the fall colors were magnificent. Our primary destination, Caribou Mountain, dominated the eastern shore and Schoodic Mountain towered above us in the south. Beyond Caribou Mountain, the imposing cliffs on the southern exposure of Tunk Mountain were seen in the distance.
Several campsites were situated at a location on the eastern shore called Redman’s Beach near a path leading to Caribou Mountain. A canoeist was camped at the western-most site when we arrived. He was bow hunting for the weekend and reported all of the remaining sites were vacant. We quickly claimed the site closest to the trailhead.
We changed into hiking clothes and began our trek on Redman’s Beach Trail in a mixed hardwood and conifer forest. After 1.4 miles of rocky, rolling terrain, we joined the Caribou Loop Trail.
Turning left, we climbed steadily on the southern shoulder of Caribou Mountain. After ascending steep ledges with sporadic views of Donnell Pond and Schoodic Mountain, we emerged onto a lengthy predominantly forested ridge.
What constitutes the true Caribou Mountain highpoint was unclear since no summit marker was found, but a location on the northern end of the ridge near spectacular east facing cliffs seemed to be the highest elevation.
We descended until reaching a junction in a col between Caribou and Catherine Mountains. Here, the loop trail turns right and the left drops to Dynamite Brook Road.
During our return to the campsite, we decided to change our plans for the following day. Instead of Schoodic Mountain, we intended to climb rugged Tunk Mountain. That would entail paddling back across the pond and driving a short distance to the Tunk Mountain Trailhead, still part of Donnell Pond Public Lands.
At the campsite, we gathered firewood, built a campfire and spent a relaxing evening watching a brilliant sunset. No other campers arrived and no boaters were seen on the pond.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” recounts the best surf and turf trips in Maine. The details of several exceptional overnight river and sea kayak excursions are also included.
