Canada Falls is the most difficult and exciting whitewater that my outdoor club, the Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society, regularly paddles.
Although not located in Canada, it’s not far away from the border. The 3.8-mile section of the South Branch of the Penobscot River is situated northeast of Jackman in a remote area a few miles east of the Canadian border.
Generally considered the authority on all things whitewater, the American Whitewater Association rates Canada Falls Class III-V. Whitewater difficulty levels are subjective and some may disagree with that rating, but it’s certainly a challenging stretch of rapids.
Canada Falls Dam at the outlet of Canada Falls Lake controls the flow of water. As a result of licensing negotiations with paddling representatives, the dam operator, Brookfield Renewable Energy, is required to provide releases on most Saturdays during the summer, pool levels on the lake permitting. Releases vary from 500 to 750 cubic feet per second.
A personal friend, Tom Christopher, was a major player in those negotiations. Tom was also instrumental in brokering whitewater releases on several additional rivers around the country.
Absent his assertive style, I doubt Maine paddlers would have the substantial river access they currently enjoy.
This year, my son Adam was PPCS trip coordinator for the Labor Day Weekend Canada Falls release. The scheduled level was 600 CFS and Brookfield confirmed that would be the flow.
Trips on Canada Falls are quite popular and turnout tends to be high. That is particularly true on Labor Day Weekend. So, it was no surprise when nine kayakers, four shredder teams, a small raft and a canoeist signed on to the trip, a total of 22 paddlers.
Getting to Canada Falls is an ambitious undertaking. A four hour drive from central Maine, the last portion is on rough logging roads to the takeout near Pittston Farm, a historic logging community.
From there, one must travel on North Maine Woods-controlled lands to a launch site below Canada Falls Dam. Gaining access through the gated entrance requires paperwork and fees. Good news for us seniors ages 70 and older, we get in free.
We had cool sunny weather for our day on the river. I had a connection with the trip coordinator and we were one of the shredder teams. Adam and I usually share a shredder a couple of times a year, but this was the first time since Kingsbury Stream in April.
We needed to be on our game.
The first few rapids were a good warmup but just a taste of what was to follow. Progressing right around a small island, we approached a horizon line.
The American Whitewater Association named this falls Surprise, but everyone I know calls it The Slide. The steep slide ends with an explosive wave and an undulating boil, followed by more powerful waves.
Most people consider the best route to be down the middle angled left, but the outcome varies. For some, the plunge is like a magic carpet ride, while others end with a trashy upside down experience.
Kayaker Mark Nelson broke the ice with a picture perfect run. Paddlers followed one after another. Some had easy descents, while others capsized.
Kayaker Gary Cole was ejected high into the air but rolled. Another paddler swam but was quickly reunited with his boat.
Adam and I thought we had the ideal line, but were almost flipped by the menacing wave. Fortunately, a low brace saved the day.
Cabin Rapid was the next difficult falls on the agenda. The complex rapid required negotiating through a steep wave train that flowed directly into a very unpleasant, almost river-wide hole.
For most, the strategy was to catch a problematic eddy above the hole and then navigate left. Our crew successfully executed the challenging maneuvers.
The ensuing sector was a continuum of steep, technical falls with few opportunities to regroup. Adam announced “follow us and go left, left, left.”
Fifteen vessels successfully plummeted through Upper and Lower Split Decision, and made the obligatory hard left turn at Mega Hole.
The final Class III rapid was easy in comparison.
At the takeout, high fives were exchanged all around. Success on Canada Falls is very satisfying and not guaranteed.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” narrates eight more exciting whitewater escapades including a descent of the Class V Gulf Hagas waterfalls.
