This story was originally published in August 2023.
A paddling trip to Islesboro begins with a 3-mile open water crossing of West Penobscot Bay. During a prior outing, I was part of a group that encountered gusty winds and rough seas when we returned from the island. So planning a cruise there entails careful advance analysis of the weather, particularly winds.
After watching the weather for several days, I identified an early August day with light winds predicted throughout. Warm temperatures and sunny skies made the forecast particularly appealing.
I had a glowing forecast but still needed to recruit some paddling companions. An email announcement with my outdoor club, Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society, resulted in three interested boaters.
Two of the prospective participants, Bud Gilbert and Allan Fuller, proposed paddling a tandem canoe. I had never been involved in an ocean trip where a canoe was used to navigate to distant islands. However, given the favorable forecast and their strong canoeing skills, it seemed like a reasonable plan. After all, thousands of years ago Native Americans frequently canoed to the islands in birch bark canoes. And the present day canoeists would have the support of two sea kayakers, Mark Nelson and me.
Winds were almost nonexistent when the four of us met at Lincolnville Beach next to the Islesboro Ferry Terminal on a warm, sunny morning. Launching from the sandy beach was very convenient. We were pleased to note conditions appeared calm in the bay. The ferry was loading as we departed.
The crossing was completed without complications. The ferry passed as we approached Warren Island, the closest island in the Islesboro archipelago. The large vessel left a succession of sizable swells in its wake. Our canoeing companions easily navigated the rolling waves in their 17-foot Old Town Tripper.
Warren Island State Park is an exceptional place to visit. The 70-acre island is just a short distance from Islesboro. Access to the park is exclusively by boat and it contains 12 campsites. A hiking trail runs along much of the shoreline and meanders around the island.
Sandy, the friendly, helpful park manager, greeted us when we went ashore. She provided advice on available facilities and encouraged a walk on the hiking trail. The park is extremely clean and well-maintained.
We gathered at a picnic table near the landing, changed into hiking shoes, and began the trek. The scenic walk was an excellent opportunity to stretch our legs. We enjoyed a leisurely pace while completing the 1-mile hike. The views of the Camden Hills from the west side of the island were outstanding.
Following a lunch break at the shoreline picnic table, we departed southeasterly in the shallow channel between Spruce and Warren islands. Turning east at the southern end of Spruce, we entered an exceptionally placid Gilkey Harbor. A large, dark vessel moored next to the Islesboro shore captured our attention.
After traversing the harbor, we conducted a close-up inspection of the mysterious watercraft. Its name, Contraband, was even more intriguing. A little research indicated the 28.65-meter motor yacht was built by New England Boatworks in Portsmouth, Rhode Island, and is the second largest vessel produced by that firm. No explanation was uncovered for the curious name.
Leaving Contraband behind, we began our return voyage to Lincolnville Beach. Rounding the northern end of Spruce Island, we passed the Islesboro Ferry Landing adjacent to Grindle Point Light on our right and progressed into West Penobscot Bay.
The calm we experienced in Gilkey Harbor was supplanted by moderately bumpy conditions in the bay. A strong tidal current and increased wind velocity from the west generated choppy broadside waves. The wake from the passing ferry created substantial turbulence, forcing us to temporarily negotiate through large colliding breakers.
Situated low in the water in our kayaks, breaking waves splashed over Mark and me on several occasions. The canoeists took some water over the gunwales, but overall they handled the challenging conditions in exemplary fashion. Following arrival at Lincolnville Beach, Mark reported his GPS measured the length of our journey to be 10 miles.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” relates eight more exciting ocean paddling excursions along the Maine coast. Included is a five-day foggy expedition on the Bold Coast, where intimidating, storm-driven waves were encountered on outer Great Wass Island.
