The onset of fatigue came quickly and decisively. Barely two hours into our hike up Hunt Trail, my thighs burned.
Even with temperatures in the 50s, I was already tired and soaked in sweat. I stopped frequently to catch my breath and drink water, wondering how I could possibly make the 10.4-mile, round-trip hike to Baxter Peak from Katahdin Stream Campground.
My son William set the pace, allowing his much younger legs and hiking and climbing experience to lead the way. Meanwhile, my fitness watch routinely recorded a heart rate in the 150s on difficult sections.
I hadn’t done any special training for the hike, but I was confident my three weekly visits to Wilcox Wellness and Fitness would be sufficient preparation for the physical challenges.
Two years ago, I learned the hard way on Cathedral Trail, as a first-time Katahdin hiker, that the mountain can’t be taken lightly. It is a difficult ascent that requires a high level of physical fitness.
Taking on the Hunt Trail, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, had been on the schedule for more than a year. Our planned visit in September 2024 had been canceled after I contracted COVID-19.
This time, exhaustion made me question my resolve. The feeling intensified as we plodded up the steep, rocky ridge known as the Hunt Spur. The mountain was almost completely shrouded in thin, gray clouds, restricting our visibility to 50 yards or less.
Will methodically followed the white blazes on the rocks, picking out the path of least resistance to help guide me. He impressed me with his strength, agility and stamina.
I complained less often than during our 2023 hike, realizing from the outset that it was going to be a physical and mental test.
“Can you imagine,” I asked Will, “coming to the end of your AT hike and having to finish on this trail?” The thought boggled my mind.
We were passed by several accomplished hikers, including a few who were completing their monthslong journey on the AT. One young man was almost giddy with excitement and anticipation.
Will kept walking, climbing and scrambling, staying far enough ahead to avoid hearing my grumbling and panting. I was on the verge of quitting, trying to decide when to tell him that I couldn’t do it.
I wasn’t embarrassed about having those thoughts. Rather, I was disappointed that I didn’t feel physically capable of doing it.
I was concerned because my fatigue had left me feeling unsteady at times. I didn’t want a misstep to turn into a mishap. But we forged ahead.
Twice, Will opened a climbing app that showed our hike progress and the terrain. The second time, he pointed out that there was only one more steep section before we would reach the plateau known as “the tableland.”
Fortunately, the weather conditions kept the visual details of that last climbing segment mostly obscured. Finally, in spite of my doubts, we emerged from the boulders.
A handful of hikers were sitting nearby resting and enjoying a snack. My thigh pain had turned from fatigue to cramping. We sat down and I gulped some water and ate a protein bar.
Thankfully, the cramping subsided after a few minutes and I got my second wind. The worst was over, but we still had to hike another mile to reach Baxter Peak.
We trudged on, Will leading the way across the tableland. While rocky, the terrain was more flat and walkable.
Finally, in the distance, the silhouettes of a dozen or so hikers at the summit were visible against a gray backdrop. And after the last uphill section, we arrived. The grueling ascent had taken us 6 1/2 hours.
Unfortunately, our view was limited to the surrounding rocks as the stubborn clouds prevented us from enjoying what would have been an amazing panorama.
We alternated taking photos with a friendly couple from Kansas whom we had encountered on the trail and I gleefully sat down to rest and eat a sandwich.
The air chilled me, forcing me to put a fleece over my perspiration-soaked shirt. Rejuvenated, I pulled out my walking sticks to help me negotiate a considerable portion of the hike down.
Will took the lead down Hunt Spur, while parts of the trail felt completely unfamiliar to me, barely recognizable from our ascent.
Amazingly, the clouds had dissipated considerably, providing some beautiful views of the surrounding peaks, lakes and colorful foliage. The clearer skies also yielded the shocking truth about how steep, challenging and exposed the Hunt Spur is.
Will pointed out that it was a good thing we couldn’t see exactly how formidable the terrain was on our way up.
We descended methodically, taking plenty of photos. And while the jarring of each descending step or drop took its toll on the knees and ankles, it was enjoyable.
We stumbled up to the hiker log at the trailhead and recorded our arrival time of 6:11 p.m. We spent 10 hours and 34 minutes on the trail.
Even though I had started my watch app some 20 minutes after we began, I logged an incredible 17,557 steps and burned 6,179 calories. I was exhausted and achey, but the feeling of accomplishment began to hit home.
I am blessed to be healthy enough to have completed the hike and to do it with Will. His quiet confidence, initiative and determination had been what had inspired me.
We celebrated the hike by grilling steaks and potatoes, with a side of greens. We slept soundly knowing it was a day neither of us would ever forget.
It would have been easy to quit, but the rewards for being relentless and resilient made it worth the struggle.
