I am no stranger to drumming. In my youth I played with vigor, performing my version of a drum solo while keeping the beat for a drum and bugle corps in Manchester called “The Muchachos.” While I didn’t get an audition for Santana, every time I created that rhythm, it helped me understand that the sound of a beat has significance.
More recently, I enjoyed the steady rhythm of tribal drums at my Metis (Mi’kmaq and French heritage) tribes’ pow wow — a different kind of beat, but one with a strong spiritual connection.
In the fall, another drummer takes the stage deep in Maine’s woods. The musician is the king of gamebirds — the ruffed grouse. These birds are not only beautiful upland game, but they’re also delicious to eat.
People often ask whether to call them partridge or grouse. I was taught as a teenager that it depends on whether they’re on the ground or in a tree. When I was young and living in the White Mountains, I’d wander the woods hoping to flush one from cover and test my reflexes — much like a gunfighter with a quick draw. When I was fortunate enough to bring one home, I’d sauté the meat in a cast-iron pan with butter and fresh garlic.
One of my most memorable moments came years later while bowhunting from a tree stand. A grouse landed on a branch just a few feet from me and began drumming. I didn’t move, just watched, amazed at how close I was to the sound. It’s one of those small outdoor blessings that stay with you.
You’ll find grouse in all kinds of terrain — from spruce and fir to open hardwoods. Old logging roads that see little traffic are great places to start. The mix of edge habitat and gravel tends to attract them. Whether you hunt them, photograph them or simply enjoy hearing their drumming, they’re one of many reasons Maine’s fall woods are so special.
Grouse are also among the finest wild table fare you’ll ever find. Their mild, sweet flavor makes them perfect for a variety of dishes. If you’re cooking grouse breast, lightly coat it with olive oil before seasoning — the oil helps keep it moist, even if you’re using butter in the pan. Rosemary, sage, garlic and lemon, pair very well, but you can also get adventurous with Tex-Mex, jerk, curry or Asian flavors.
From the rhythm of the woods to the rhythm of the kitchen, grouse always deliver something memorable — in sight, sound and taste. Here’s one of my favorite ways to prepare Maine’s drumming grouse.
Maple grouse marsala for two
Ingredients
2-4 grouse breasts (1-2 birds)
Olive oil
Tuscan seasoning
Garlic powder
Ground sage
8 ounces of shiitake mushrooms
1/2 cup sweet Marsala wine
2 tsp of maple sugar
Butter
Unbleached all-purpose flour
Directions
- Lightly coat grouse breasts with olive oil, then season them with Tuscan seasoning and garlic powder.
- Lightly dredge the breast meat in unbleached all-purpose flour, shaking off excess.
- Heat a skillet over medium-high heat and add a tablespoon of olive oil and “real” butter.
- When butter is melted, add the breasts to the pan and brown on both sides until cooked.
- Remove the grouse from the pan, tent with foil and set aside.
- Add a tablespoon of butter and mushrooms to the pan and sauté until mushrooms are 1/2 to 3/4 browned.
- Add about 1 cup of sweet Marsala wine to the pan, increase the heat so the wine bubbles, and cook for 3-5 minutes, while working fond into the wine sauce. Season with a pinch of ground sage, maple sugar and some garlic powder.
- Sauce should thicken. If needed, make a slurry of 1 teaspoon cornstarch and cold water (stir with fork) and stir into wine to slightly thicken.
- Add grouse back to sauce so meat is coated.
- Serve grouse and wine sauce over cooked spaghetti squash, or with mashed potatoes and your favorite veggies.
