In my career as an outdoor writer, I’ve been so focused on the state of Maine that I’ve overlooked some incredible hikes just across the state border, in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.
But no more. I’ve ripped off my blinders and am determined to explore those granite peaks, one at a time. Or perhaps three at a time, as was the case during my most recent hike of Franconia Ridge.
The White Mountains are a playground for many Mainers. After all, from Maine’s largest city, Portland, it’s just an hour and a half to Conway, New Hampshire, a gateway to the Whites (and home to some great shops and restaurants).
Lucky for me, my uncle Bruce rented a house in Conway for a few weeks this summer, and he invited me to visit. I packed in as many adventures as possible.
The biggest hike I tackled was what’s known as the Franconia Ridge Loop. This challenging 9-mile route travels up and over three major peaks (Little Haystack, Mount Lincoln and Mount Lafayette), all rising over 4,000 feet above sea level. This puts them in a special category for hikers in the Northeast. In fact, many make it their mission to hike all 48 mountains in New Hampshire that are over 4,000 feet.
In addition, many hikers tack on Maine’s 14 mountains that reach over 4,000 feet, several of which are located in Baxter State Park. (I’ve hiked 10. Four more to go!)
The weather was predicted to be hot and humid on July 15, when my partner Chris and I set out to hike Franconia Ridge. The golden light of early morning streamed through the forest, the rays so distinct they appeared like spotlights on a stage — a stage of moss-covered boulders and dark tree trunks, feathery ferns and floppy maple leaves.
The aptly named Falling Waters Trail treated us to a number of spectacular waterfalls during our three-mile ascent. We passed several cascades, including Stairs Falls, Swiftwater Falls and the impressive Cloudland Falls (which is about 80 feet tall).
Beyond the waterfalls, the rocky trail climbed through a dense evergreen forest in an ascent that felt endless. Then, bam — we popped out onto the open summit of Little Haystack Mountain, which is a misleading name, given that it tops off at 4,761 feet above sea level.
Layers of rolling mountains stretched to the horizon in various shades of blue, their forms softened by the haze of summer and wildfire smoke drifting over from Canada. Franconia Ridge Trail (which is also the Appalachian Trail) stretched to the north and south. We headed north, toward the summit of Mount Lincoln, just 0.7-mile away.
One great thing about the Franconia Ridge Loop is that so much of the route is above treeline with amazing views. Following the rocky ridge, the trail threaded through beds of lowlying alpine plants dotted with white blossoms. Orange butterflies danced in the warm breeze. (I think they were Atlantis fritillaries, which are often found in open areas of the White Mountains.)
After reaching Mount Lincoln’s summit at 5,089 feet, we continued another 0.9-mile to Mount Lafayette, the tallest at 5,261 feet above sea level. For reference, that’s just 20 feet below the summit of Katahdin, Maine’s tallest mountain.
Oddly, atop Lafayette, we observed a luna moth lying flat on the ground. These large, green creatures are among the most beloved moths in the eastern United States, and while I often see them outside my home in the woods of Maine, finding one at this elevation added an unexpected touch of wonder to our summit experience.
At each of the summits, I asked Chris to take a photo of me as proof, just in case I some day attempt to finish the entire list of 48 4,000-footers. However, none of the mountains had summit signs. This surprised me because nearly every mountain and hill has a summit sign in Maine. But perhaps an unmarked summit, left natural, isn’t such a bad thing.
We did encounter necessary trail intersection signs, which were helpful waypoints as we referenced the paper trail map we carried. (Always carry a paper trail map. Don’t trust that technology, like a GPS, won’t fail.)
Our descent began with a gradual 1.1-mile walk from the top of Mount Lafayette to Greenleaf Hut, a backcountry lodge run by the Appalachian Mountain Club. This 1930-built refuge sits at 4,220 feet and serves as a place for day hikers and backpackers to stop and rest — whether for the night or just a few minutes.
For us, it provided welcome shelter from the sun and a chance to refill our water bottles from a tap — a luxury in the backcountry. Sitting on a bench in the common room, we ate granola bars while I silently cursed us for not bringing any cash for the homemade cookies sitting on a nearby table.
From the lodge, we completed the loop on the Old Bridle Path, which travels along Agony Ridge over a series of steep humps called The Agonies. Sounds fun, right? It actually wasn’t too bad, though a few rocky areas required us to slow down, use our hands and get creative.
According to several blogs, The Agonies were named by Appalachian Mountain Club crew members as they hauled heavy packs of gear and food to Greenleaf Hut. In that case, the name seems entirely appropriate.
The hike was challenging but full of rewards. You don’t need to tackle such a strenuous route to enjoy the White Mountains, though. For the rest of our stay in Conway, we enjoyed easier, shorter hikes, including a 3-mile hike to visit Arethusa Falls, which at 140 feet is known as the tallest single-drop waterfall in New Hampshire.
What’s your favorite hike in the White Mountains? I may just give it a try.
