We assembled at the water’s edge of Birch Point State Park and placed our sea kayaks in a line, bows pointed toward the retreating tide. Three yellow boats — one white, one orange. Long and slender, they were built for cutting through waves and traveling fast.
All around us, dozens of beachgoers wandered the sand and clambered over rocky outcroppings to sunbathe and picnic. We dragged our kayaks into gentle waves and left the crowd behind.
A thin layer of fog shrouded our destination: Mussel Ridge Islands, an archipelago of secluded islands off the coast of South Thomaston, just south of Owls Head. To get there, we’d need to kayak about 2.5 miles across open water, but we were confident. Our group included an experienced sea kayaker who lives in the area and has explored the islands many times.
The ocean was particularly calm that afternoon, with a gentle breeze stirring the smallest waves. Exercising caution, we crossed the Mussel Ridge Channel, keeping our distance from a couple large motorized boats, then slicing through their wakes.
As we neared the islands, shrill calls drew my attention skyward, where terns danced through the air, their forked tails flashing in the sun.
To our left, I spied a group of ducks — more specifically, a group of female eiders and their many ducklings. Maine’s largest sea duck, the eider is known for forming these large groups, also called creches. The idea is that there’s safety in numbers. The adult female ducks work together to detect and deter predators like eagles, gulls, minks and seals. Some of these protective groups become so large that they contain well over 100 ducklings.
Weaving through islands of granite and spruce, the water became glassy calm, reflecting the bright colors of our boats. Just below the surface, moon jellyfish drifted by, their wispy tentacles trailing behind translucent, circular bodies.
All along the Maine coast, jellyfish sightings have increased this summer. In addition to the moon jellyfish, we spotted a lion’s mane jelly during our island adventure. With a fiercer sting, it’s one of the largest known species of jellyfish in the world, with its dome-shaped body reaching up to 120 feet in diameter. However, the one we observed was only about the size of a grapefruit and its body was sherbet orange.
We paddled between Dix and High islands, then around Birch Island to Hewett Island. There our group decided to split up. Three of us would continue about 2 miles to Two Bush Island Light, which is an active lighthouse managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Established in 1897, the brick lighthouse is 42 feet high. It’s said to be named after two bushes or trees that used to stand beside it.
Instead of paddling to the lighthouse, I opted to stay behind with my partner Chris and search for wildlife in the calm water of Dix Island Harbor.
Near Nettle Island, harbor seals lounged on a ledge, their plump bodies draped over mounds of rockweed. As we paddled past, they raised their dog-like heads and stared with dark, round eyes, whiskers twitching. Some of the seals were noticeably smaller than others — this year’s babies, born between late April and June.
We landed on a tiny sand beach on a tiny islet and snacked on chocolate zucchini bread. Across the water, two ospreys tended their giant stick nest, high up in a tree. I imagine they were still carrying fish to their young, which, in Maine, often don’t fledge until late July or early August.
While sitting in the sand, I watched a seal swim slowly past. It lifted its head out of the water from time to time, as if to get a better look at us. Of all the wild animals I’ve watched in Maine, seals appear to be among the most curious.
Over a dozen islands make up Mussel Ridge Islands, plus several named and unnamed ledges. On many maps, the archipelago is actually called Muscle Ridge Islands, but I prefer the shellfish version. It just makes more sense, with Maine waters being so full of delicious mussels. Also, the Mussel Ridge Historical Society, founded in 1960 by local residents who care deeply about the area, voted for “Mussel” rather than “Muscle” for their name, so that settles it for me.
The cluster of islands is a popular place for sea kayakers to explore because it’s fairly accessible and is home to a variety of wildlife, plus small, sandy beaches. However, beware that currents can be strong in Muscle Ridge Channel. In a few places, I found the nose of my kayak tossed suddenly to the side. Instead of panicking, I just kept paddling, correcting my course once free of the current.
A few of the islands in the archipelago are a part of the Maine Island Trail, a 375-mile water trail that connects 227 sites and 228 shoreside resources along the entire length of the Maine coast. However, membership to the Maine Island Trail Association is required for access to detailed information about their island sites.
Before long, Chris and I reconnected with our friends and, as a group, we headed back across the channel to the beach at Birch Point State Park. My arms burned from paddling hard, and a blister had formed on the inside of my right thumb, probably from gripping my paddle too hard. But I was proud of our little 4.5-hour expedition.
Though I’ve kayaked for many years and I own a sea kayak, I don’t paddle often enough to consider myself anything but a beginner. So it was wonderful to explore some islands with more experienced kayakers and become more comfortable wearing a spray skirt. I hope to keep building my skills during group paddles.
Maine is home to more than 4,600 coastal islands. There’s so much to explore.
