As I struggled uphill on cross-country skis, waddling like a duck in an effort to gain purchase on slippery snow on the woods trail, my motivation was a hot meal I knew was waiting for me just ahead.
A steaming bowl of wholesome cauliflower soup paired with a grilled cheese sandwich. Chocolate chip and snickerdoodle cookies, just out of the oven. Hot chocolate, coffee, tea or a refreshing glass of beer or wine. That’s what awaited us at Poplar Stream Hut
Deep in the frozen woods of western Maine, more than 50 miles of trails thread between four backcountry lodges. This system, run by the nonprofit organization Maine Huts and Trails, is an opportunity for adventure and to enjoy small luxuries in the woods.
Three of the four lodges are open to guests. Grand Falls Hut, the most remote in the system, is closed temporarily for bridge and trail repairs. But Flagstaff Hut, Poplar Stream Hut and Stratton Brook Hut, all connected by trails, are open for business.
The three huts are staffed by caretakers responsible for cooking and keeping things running smoothly during the winter. They also, from my experience, make it their mission to be friendly and welcoming to visitors.
When we arrived at Poplar Stream Hut after 3.3 miles of cross-country skiing on hilly, beautifully groomed trails, we were greeted warmly by two caretakers in charge of lunch.
Served to visitors on Saturdays and Sundays during the winter, lunch is just $12 for soup and a sandwich, plus $1 for a cookie. The menus for all three lodges are posted on the Maine Huts and Trails Facebook page, so you can vividly imagine the food as you ski or snowshoe toward your destination.
Having lunch at one of the lodges is a great way to enjoy the trail system without committing to an overnight adventure. Reservations aren’t required, so it can be spur of the moment, as long as you arrive between noon and 2 p.m.
You’ll need to reserve a room to stay the night, and you can opt for your stay to include dinner, breakfast and a bagged lunch during the winter. Snazzy, huh? They also offer shuttle services for your gear.
I’ve always been a fan of Maine Huts and Trails. I love the concept of walking or skiing to an oasis in the middle of the woods, a place where you not only find good food, but also state-of-the-art composting toilets that don’t stink, hot showers and a communal reading room where you can sink into a leather sofa with a cup of tea and a good book.
As an overnight guest, you need to bring your own bedding, but the beds feature foam mattresses and pillows, which is a luxury in the backcountry.
Years ago, I reserved a bunk room at Flagstaff Hut for my sister’s bachelorette party. It being late summer, we spent our time swimming and kayaking in the clear, warm waters of Flagstaff Lake, and cycling through yoga poses on the sandy shore. We still talk about the fun we had on that trip.
Inspired by hut-to-hut trails in the Alps, the Maine Huts and Trails “huts” are actually spacious lodges constructed of locally sourced lumber and slate. They were designed by local architect John Orcutt, whose nature and landscape photographs adorn the walls.
While the huts allow for overnight adventures, they’re also well-situated for day visits. From the nearest parking lots, Flagstaff Hut can be reached in 2 miles of trail walking or skiing; Stratton Brook Hut can be reached in about 3 miles (with a lot of uphill climbing); and Poplar Stream Hut can be reached in 3.3 miles. That makes them great lunch destinations.
When selecting which hut to visit for lunch recently, the menu rather than the location steered our choice. I’m a sucker for grilled cheese and pureed soup of any type.
A few minutes after sitting down to lunch, we were greeted by none other than Wolfe Tone, the executive director of Maine Huts and Trails. He just happened to be visiting the huts to chat with guests.
Poring over a trail map at the lunch table, we decided to explore Larry’s Trail on the way back to the trailhead. Unlike the wide, groomed multi-use trail that we skied to reach the hut, Larry’s Trail was narrow and labeled as a trail for snowshoes and bikes. It visits a waterfall, which was frozen that day. We could just barely hear the water gurgling beneath thick sheets of ice.
By the time we returned to the trailhead, the sun was sinking over the snowy forest. We’d spent most of the day in the woods, and I can’t think of a better way we could have spent our time.
