HOULTON, Maine — What started more than a decade ago with a dream and 100 paying members has grown into a flourishing community hub known for its locally sourced groceries, a burgeoning offering of artisan works, vegetarian farm-to-table meals, breads, pastries, coffee and warm hugs.
The County Co-op & Farm Store, a member-owned cooperative, has been growing financially at a rate of 20 percent a year after three Houlton friends managed to open the Market Street store in 2013, according to Jane Torres, one of the founders and president of the Co-op board.
“We occupy such a tiny little corner of the world, but we are doing something good. We are creating something that makes people happy,” said Co-op General Manager Judy Joklik, who is famous for her sourdough breads, black bean vegetarian burgers that come from her mom’s recipe and kimchee grilled cheese sandwiches.
Today, visitors gravitate to the cozy historic space filled with welcoming locals and scents that include rich coffee, spices from homemade soups and freshly baked oatmeal or chocolate chip cookies.
Calvin and Ana Episcopo visited the Co-op for lunch on their first day in town after moving from Martha’s Vineyard in the fall. They were given a welcome packet with gifts and coupons, they said.
“Everyone here is so incredibly nice,” said Calvin.
Success for the Co-op continued even through the COVID-19 pandemic and at a time when other local downtown restaurants and shops closed last year.
Joklik attributes it to several things, including the mostly volunteer staff.
There’s a lot to it, she said, adding that the reason she can put passion and love into the food and the people is because she doesn’t have to do all the work the board is doing.
“The board devotes a lot of time to the Co-op, and they do a lot of work. Volunteers run the artisan consignment section, and do all of the decorations,” she said. “I have a couple of ladies who come in three days a week to help with dishes, running plates. I can bake a cake instead of doing dishes.”
Board member and co-founder Jon McLaughlin said that people often say nobody volunteers anymore, but that’s just not true.
Before they even had a space for the Co-op, word spread that Torres, McLaughlin and Meg Scott were trying to open a food cooperative and 100 community members each paid $200 for a lifetime membership to help them get going, said Torres.
“That gave us some money to work with,” she said, adding that a student intern from University of Maine at Orono created a business plan.
Once in their space at 53 Market St., they started to sell local farm products. Then folks said there was no place to get coffee, so they offered it freshly brewed. Then the coffee needed sweets. So several board members got their kitchens certified, making pastries and cookies for the cafe portion of the farm store, Torres said, adding that over time it expanded to soups, sandwiches and more.
Today, there are 200 lifetime members who get a 7 percent discount, although anyone can shop at the Co-op. Joklik is the only full-time employee who does much of the cooking and baking, and there are four part-timers, about a half-dozen regular volunteers and the 12-member board.
On Wednesday, Nancy West and Mac Randolph, who have been board members for about 10 years, were taking inventory of the meats in the freezer. On a busy week, the couple may put in 20 hours each.
“I love it, I really do,” West said. “I feel like we are doing something worthy. The Co-op is definitely worth the work.”
The entire upstairs of the large 19th century building is reserved for artists and artisans who sell on consignment, including local artist Gina Parent, and Syn-Cyr-Ly Sisters who make mittens and dog booties out of recycled sweaters. There are woodworkers, textile artists, seamstresses and potters. Not to mention handmade bags, cards, paintings and other artisan-made gifts.
Joklik is a trained archaeologist who worked in that profession for several years before moving to Maine four years ago with her partner, Isaac St. Dennis, who is the Tribal historic preservation officer for the Houlton Band of Maliseet Indians.
While working for MOM’s Organic Market in Maryland during the pandemic, Joklik was bitten by the baking bug, she said, adding that when she moved to Maine, she was looking for a baking job.
“When I walked through the doors of the Co-op for the first time here they weren’t really hiring a baker but needed someone for the kitchen,” she said. “It occurred to me there was going to be potential to create the job I wanted.”
Her job continued to grow and she accepted the management role at the end of 2024.
She said that Maine-made products — including soda, maple syrup, honey, jam, sausage, grains, coffee, mustard, olive oil, meats and chocolates, along with books by local authors — make up the beating heart of the store.
“Any chance to invest back into the community is a net gain,” Joklik said.
“I come in everyday and I cook, but what I am really doing and makes me feel good when I go home is that I’ve helped the community, I’ve created community and I have been given community here. I gained a family I love.”
