Several members of the Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society were taking a break for lunch at a riverside campsite at Jamaica State Park in Vermont during the West Fest, considering a return to the put-in at Bald Mountain Dam for a second run.
We were participating in an annual fall whitewater release on the West River and had concluded our first descent of a 3-mile section of almost continuous Class III rapids.
Six paddlers in four kayaks and two canoes resolved to make another arduous climb over the dam in order to take advantage of the exceptional whitewater experience. The remainder of the group chose to stay at the campsite and await our return.
Upon arrival, the two canoeists would join them for 3.5 miles of Class II whitewater below the campsite.
After completing the strenuous climb over the dam, we enjoyed another rollicking ride through exciting whitewater that included Initiation, Boof Rock and Dumplings Rapids. Everyone aced the challenging descent.
When we returned to the campsite, most of our merry band of Chowderheads assembled for the remaining rapids on the lower section.
My wife, Nancy, and I had different plans for continuing the West Fest. We were going to research possible flatwater paddling options for the following day and explore the West River Trail in nearby Brattleboro.
Initially, our efforts to find a quality lake or pond to paddle were disappointing. Bald Mountain and Townsend Lakes, both dammed sections of the West River, were discouragingly low and essentially unnavigable.
But where the West River joins the Connecticut River in Brattleboro, the West River widens and forms an island-filled body of water locally referred to as West Lake. After viewing much of the shoreline, studying our maps, and locating a convenient boat landing, we concluded that would be our paddling destination for the following day.
Fortuitously, the southern trailhead for the lower West River Trail is next to the landing. We decided on an afternoon trail adventure. Nancy chose to hike whereas I opted to bike.
The West River Trail began in Brattleboro. The lower section followed north along the West River for about four miles and then connected with lightly traveled dirt roads before ending in the rural village of Dummerston. Additional portions of the trail have been opened farther north.
From the outset, I found the trail to be an excellent stimulating ride. Much of the path travels next to the river with many exceptional views. The hard-packed dirt surface is mostly double-track but is narrower in one stretch. I traveled through a couple of areas where the original railroad bed was carved out of a steep granite slope.
After reaching the northern trailhead, the rail trail joins a dirt road that follows along the river. Only one slow moving vehicle was encountered as I continued to ride the moderately hilly road for a couple of additional miles before turning back.
Faced with a five-hour drive home, Nancy and I were up early the next morning for our paddle on West Lake. A landing on the east side allowed for easy access to the water. After unloading kayaks, we left our vehicle in the nearby West River Trail parking area.
We paddled north along the east shore between a large island on the left and the shoreline next to the West River Trail on the right. We soon passed under the Interstate 91 Bridge and continued farther north until reaching the river where low water prevented further navigation.
On return, we crossed to the west shore where we met a rower out for his morning paddle. Progressing south, we entered shallow water and passed through an entertaining collection of small islands.
West of the islands, the lake opened into a circular bay. We circumnavigated the bay and departed east through a narrow passage into the Connecticut River.
Time constraints prohibited continuing our paddle on the Connecticut. When returning to the landing, we passed The Marina Restaurant, which serves excellent seafood.
Our West Fest weekend completed, we began our drive home while making tentative plans for next year.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” describes the best bike trails, lake paddles and whitewater trips in Maine.
