Six of us awoke to another beautiful day on the Petawawa River in Ontario. This was the third day of our trip, and based on the river description, it would be the most challenging one we would face.
We were located at a campsite just above the beginning of Grillade Rapid, expected to be an easy descent. Shortly after, three difficult stretches of whitewater were to follow in quick succession. Each would require careful scouting and possible portages.
As anticipated, Grillade Rapid was easily navigated and we soon arrived at the start of the mile-long portage trail for Crooked Chute Rapids. Park officials and the shuttle service had warned us that some or all of Crooked Chute would need to be carried.
There are three potential take outs before the actual chute, a mandatory portage. The third takeout is the last stop before entering the perilous chute.
We decided to boat scout — or paddle up slowly to a feature in the river to get a good line of sight — to the second takeout. Pat Hamlin, who sat higher in his solo canoe than the rest of the group, probed as we carefully negotiated downriver in easy whitewater. Encountering no difficulties, we progressed around a bend past the second takeout.
Boat scouting continued to go smoothly to the final takeout. As a result of our cautious efforts, we managed to avoid about three-quarters of the portage.
A long tedious inspection of the chute and the remainder of the portage trail ensued. Most of us were able to line our empty boats down the right shore for about 100 yards to the top of the chute.
From there, we hauled them over ledges to a pool above the next rapid called Lower Chute.
Returning, we carried our gear to the bottom of Lower Chute. Although the portage trail is in good condition, a steep hill must be climbed.
Starting at the end of the portage trail, we hiked upstream along the shore to scout Lower Chute. From above, it appeared to be quite difficult, but closer inspection indicated a narrow technical route that was navigable.
We returned to our boats and one-by-one successfully maneuvered through the tricky rapid.
After reloading our boats, we progressed in flatwater to Rollway Rapid. Again, we had been advised that most paddlers carry the upper portion before launching below a ledge drop about midway.
Our crew followed the portage trail on the right and spent a lengthy time investigating the rapid from various locations. What constituted the ledge drop was unclear, but we identified a route through the upper half that seemed feasible with full boats. The lower portion appeared to be easy rock dodging.
The sector we had carefully scouted went well, but the lower end turned out to be more complex than anticipated. Most of us struggled to maneuver our heavy boats through narrow twisting channels in an extensive boulder garden.
Despite the obstacles, our capable band made it through with just one momentary pin.
One major impediment remained, The Natch Rapids. The river narrows just beyond Rollway where a canyon begins. A horizon line just beyond the portage trail on the left marks the start of two steep ledge drops that constitute upper Natch. While scouting from the portage trail, we decided to take advantage of a campsite next to the trail.
The preferable route for upper Natch is to plunge between two boulders angled left to miss an unpleasant appearing pour-over at the bottom of the first ledge. Exposed rocks must be avoided immediately downstream on the second ledge.
After carefully scouting the complex falls, four of us decided to line our boats down the left shore, while the other two left their boats at the top. They would make their decision on whether or not to run it in the morning.
Settling into the campsite for the evening, we assessed the day. We had only paddled about four miles the entire day and probably hiked and portaged gear another two miles. Despite the short distance, we had earned a good night’s sleep.
A surprising thing happened that evening — it rained for a few minutes. That was the only precipitation we received during our five-day journey.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” describes the five best river trips in Maine. One expedition down Webster Stream and the East Branch of the Penobscot includes several difficult rapids and six portages.
