When I was a kid back in the 1950s, my family visited Pemaquid Point each summer.
My Dad would cook lobsters and clams between boulders high on the point. While he was cooking, my brothers and I would scramble over the gigantic rocks. My mother would entertain our infant sister while periodically calling us back when we got too close to the water. They’re wonderful memories.
I began sea kayaking about 20 years ago and have often contemplated navigating around Pemaquid Point. Since the point has a reputation for turbulent waters, I needed strong paddling companions and a forecast for good conditions. I recently realized I needed to complete the adventure soon while still capable.
I wanted a forecast with light winds and calm seas, preferably including sunny skies. After studying the weather for a couple of weeks, I identified what appeared to be the perfect day. I invited a handful of good friends who were also strong paddlers. Mark Nelson and Jean Miller answered the call.
My plan was to launch at the landing near Pemaquid Harbor and complete a traverse around the point to Round Pond, for what appeared to be about 11 miles.
The very favorable forecast called for light winds early in the morning followed by a moderate sea breeze picking up midday from the southwest. My strategy was to begin early and turn the point in the morning at about mid-tide.
Low tide would occur at noon and the subsequent incoming tide would begin pushing us north on the east side of the peninsula where we would be protected from the southwest winds.
On the morning of our scheduled paddle, I awoke to a foggy forecast ending around 9 a.m. I called my companions and we agreed to postpone our meeting time in Round Pond until 9:30 a.m.
Dense fog covered the area when we arrived. After a lengthy discussion, we decided to complete a shuttle to Pemaquid Harbor on the optimistic assumption the fog would soon lift.
The fog was slowly thinning when we reached the landing at the mouth of the Pemaquid River. By the time we unloaded our boats and gear, the launch area was free of fog. The trip was on.
Leaving the river, we entered Pemaquid Harbor and passed Fort William Henry on our left. Progressing south along the west shore in calm seas and a light headwind, we soon ventured into a fog bank. While not dense, patchy fog would plague us for the remainder of the trip. The wonderful anticipated views of the boulder-strewn point were not going to be.
We approached the rocky point with about a quarter mile of visibility. Two hours behind the original schedule, an incoming tide and the sea breeze began as we were rounding the majestic peninsula. While never perilous, the changes caused some turbulence.
We needed to be on our game.
After avoiding crashing waves at the tip of the point, I began looking for Pemaquid Point Lighthouse. My faded memory of the lighthouse put it a short distance east of the point.
Focused on maneuvering through the unpredictable waves and struggling to see in the fog, I thought I’d missed it. Then I noticed some hikers at the end of a narrow stretch of ledges. Just beyond, the lighthouse was visible atop some cliffs partially hidden by the fog.
The powerful tide began propelling us north along imposing cliffs. The anticipated southwest winds appeared to be from the southeast and stronger than predicted. The combination caused choppy seas and erratic swells.
We were laboring in fluctuating conditions and had little time to enjoy the views.
Traveling in excess of four miles per hour, we soon passed New Harbor. Shortly beyond, a welcome sandy beach was found in Long Cove where we stopped for lunch and a rest.
We encountered a strong headwind leaving the cove but enjoyed a favorable push north to Round Pond.
The harbor was free of fog when we entered. My estimate of the trip distance was erroneous. Mark measured it to be almost 14 miles on his GPS.
Despite the obstacles, a longtime goal had been realized.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” relates eight more Maine coastal kayaking excursions including treacherous seas encountered near Isle au Haut and Great Wass Island.
