For several days, a large group of Mainers had been camping at Herring Cove Provincial Park on Campobello Island in New Brunswick. Early on, many of us enjoyed an outstanding sea kayak trip along the rugged east side of the island. When foggy conditions prevented kayaking, we biked and hiked the Roosevelt Campobello International Park trails. However, for some of us, one goal remained — a sea kayak expedition along the western and northern shores of the island.
As a result of a previous visit last year and our earlier voyage, several of us had kayaked about two-thirds of the island shoreline. However, the sector from the village of Welshpool on the west side to Mill Cove in the northeastern corner remained undone. Two trips had been planned but were canceled due to thick fog.
Signs were encouraging for a paddle when we arose for the final full day of our stay. A drive to Welshpool confirmed that the coastline was fog-free but patchy fog lingered in the distance. Nine of us decided to attempt the trip.
We dropped kayaks next to the ferry landing in Welshpool. Since there is minimal parking at the landing, most of the vehicles were transported to Mill Cove and the drivers returned in one vehicle while two of us remained with the kayaks.
The landing was a busy place. Just before we launched, the Deer Island Ferry delivered and picked up full loads of vehicles.
Fog banks could be seen in the distance along the shores of Eastport and Deer Island when we departed in gentle seas and a light tailwind at about high tide. An early concern was crossing the mouth of substantial Harbour de Lutre since treacherous tidal currents were reported to occur at some levels. We had studied the tide schedule and planned to arrive at close to high tide to minimize the risk.
The seas were calm but fog was infiltrating when we began the Harbour de Lutre traverse. We took a precautionary compass bearing to distant Cook’s Point before continuing. Nearing halfway, the fog lifted and the potentially hazardous remainder of the crossing was uneventful.
Light rain commenced as we passed the small village of Wilson’s Beach. Soon after, we progressed along cliffs that were reminiscent of the east side of the island. A substantial fish weir was the object of exploration in this area.
Members of our party spotted a whale off the distant shore of Eastport. Whale sightings are common in the Campobello Island area and whale watching tours are conducted from Welshpool and Wilson’s Beach. A few people in our group had gone on a tour and observed a minke whale. Alas, no close encounters on our journey.
Rounding an escarpment near the northern end of the island, we were thrilled to encounter spectacular views of the dramatic Head Harbour Lightstation. The colorful distinctive lighthouse sits on the jagged cliffs of a tiny islet that is separated from the main island at high tide. It was constructed in 1829 to aid ships navigating the notorious Bay of Fundy fog, high tides and rocky Campobello Island.
We split into two groups: some passing on the outside of the lighthouse, while others negotiated through a narrow channel on the inside. After pausing to embrace the magnificent view, we crossed open water to Head Harbour Island. Tall cliffs dominate the outside of the island where we investigated a cave carved out of the wall by eons of violent Bay of Fundy storms. Offshore boulders provided opportunities for stimulating slalom-style maneuvers.
More open water brought us to the northern end of Mill Cove. Fog was creeping in from the south when we entered. By the time we were deep into the cove, visibility was less than a couple of hundred feet. We had been extremely fortunate. Had dense fog been encountered earlier, it might have jeopardized the trip.
Instead, our voyage ended on a very happy note. We were able to locate the rocky beach and carry kayaks to our waiting vehicles. For me, completing a circumnavigation of Campobello Island was the highlight of several exceptional outdoor adventures during our visit.
My book “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” narrates eight sea kayak excursions along the Maine coast including a foggy expedition on the Bold Coast that ended in nearby Lubec.
