Campobello Island in New Brunswick, across the International Bridge from Lubec with its rugged, spectacular coastline, seems like a continuation of the Bold Coast, which extends north from Cutler to West Quoddy Head in Lubec.
Were it not for a historical happenstance, Campobello would likely be part of the United States, according to the book “Moondoggle.” When inspecting the area during boundary negotiations, American diplomat, Daniel Webster, got seasick and declined to sail around the island.
With his blessings, the Webster-Ashburton Treaty in 1842 established the international border west of Campobello, even though it was a few feet from Lubec and miles from Canada.
Recently, a large group of Mainers traveled to Campobello for six days of kayaking, biking and hiking during the island’s annual Fog Fest.
Campobello has a Fog Fest for a good reason: fog is very common. While camping at Herring Cove Provincial Park, we experienced a steady diet of soupy haze throughout our stay.
Sea kayaking the Campobello coastline was a primary goal for most of the group with the rugged east side of the island our top priority. During our first full day, dense fog precluded a safe kayak trip, so we biked and hiked the Roosevelt Campobello International Park trails.
The sun was shining when we arose the following morning, but patchy fog persisted along much of the coastline. Twelve kayakers in 11 kayaks decided to organize a shuttle in hopes of completing a journey along the east shore if the foggy conditions improved.
Since light to moderate winds were predicted out of the southwest, we planned a traverse from south to north. Two vehicles were left at Mill Cove in the northeastern corner of the island for a return shuttle.
While leaving the cove, one vehicle was temporarily stuck in sand, causing a short delay and a strenuous workout for three members of the party to get it unstuck.
The entire group met at a gravel beach on the southern shore of the park, called Lower Duck Pond.
Fog still lingered along the coast but appeared to be lifting. We prepared for potential foggy paddling by consulting our maps, taking a compass bearing and placing fog horns and fog lights on our kayak decks. The trip was on.
Not only was the fog a concern, but rounding sometimes treacherous Liberty Point was a matter to be reckoned with. Located about a mile east of the put-in, we hoped to minimize any risk by arriving at about high tide.
Fog diminished as we approached the formidable promontory. Massive Sugarloaf Rock marks the extreme end of the point. Calm seas allowed for safe passage on both the inside and outside of the impressive monolith.
The fog was moving offshore as we turned the point and the magnificent coastline was visible facing north, but nearby Grand Manan Island remained enveloped in fog throughout the day.
Our hardy band progressed north with the assistance of a light tailwind.
In a couple of locations, the high tide allowed paddlers to negotiate through narrow channels between the coast and offshore boulders. We stopped at picturesque Raccoon Beach for some boat adjustments and a snack.
After passing boulder-strewn Con Robinson Point, 12 kayakers traversed expansive Herring Cove to prominent Eastern Head at the far end. From that escarpment, the dazzling cliffs continue almost unabated to Mill Cove.
Most of the remaining journey along the bluffs was in calm water, although we encountered tricky unpredictable currents next to some headlands. Not far offshore, the powerful Fundy Bay tides were causing turbulent seas; an added incentive to stay close to the cliffs.
Shortly before entering Mill Cove, we passed an immense fish weir that appeared to be operational.
The tide was flowing out when we entered Mill Cove. After landing on the rocky beach, an extended carry was required to reach the vehicles.
A handful of intrepid paddlers opted to lengthen their day by kayaking to Head Harbor Light Station at the northern terminus of the island. Most of us were satisfied with a truly exceptional paddling experience. For many, the lighthouse was an objective for another day; hopefully from the west side of the island.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Adventures in Maine” narrates eight sea kayak trips in Maine including an exciting foggy expedition along the entire Bold Coast.
