SMYRNA, Maine – It’s a total dawn to dusk day for the Amish cooperative families who work and grow for The Back 40 Farm Market along Route 2 just past the Pioneer Place in Smyrna.
“It’s an intense summer, because the growing season is short and we have to do a lot in a short time to keep fresh items in here,” said Jonas Esch, one of three market managers.
Reminiscent of heirloom Victorian gardens packed with deep red tomatoes, crisp vibrant greens and burgeoning melons, this Amish cooperative started in 1997 as a porch farm stand down the road from its current location.
As demand for their products grew, they got more Smyrna Amish community growers on board and today it is a retail store with 12 families providing daily just-picked freshness.
“We collaborate and market our products together,” he said. “We have a much larger selection than we used to have.”
The market offers fresh-picked produce, pickles they make on premises, grass fed beef, pasture chicken, pasture pork, raw milk, butter, cheese, yogurt, kefir, jams and jellies, baked goods, baskets, leather products, fresh picked and pick your own flowers and more.
On Aug. 30 and 31 they are hosting an open house at the farm market with free handmade vanilla ice cream with toppings, along with sale items in the shop. There will also be grass-fed beef burgers for sale, Esch said.
There are about 26 families in the Smyrna Amish community and in addition to the Back 40 Farm Market, they have several other businesses in this Aroostook County town of 420, including a general store and greenhouse.
Last spring the co-op members built the timber frame farm market building, expanding into their new location. Ever since, they continue to explore new and unusual offerings.
“We hope to keep adding more specialty fruits and vegetables. We are learning how to grow more and more things every year,” Esch said. “It might be things like cilantro or bok choy, things you can’t find just anywhere.”
Among their more unique selections are jalapeno cheddar bread, kohlrabi, hot wax Hungarian peppers, hot and spicy pickles, heirloom tomatoes, F.R.O.G (figs, raspberries, orange and grape) jam, monster cookies, Buggy Whip Sharp cheddar artisan cheese, and 12-pound bags of beans and other produce for canning.
Not to mention competitive pricing like large zucchini at $1 each, handcrafted leather dog collars at $11.25 and fresh baked breads for $4 to $6.
The baked goods are made on premises and baked in a commercial wood fired oven.
A large walk-in “ice box” offers refrigeration for certain items.
Every winter they actually get ice off ponds or rinks designated for harvesting. Once the ice gets to about a foot thick they use specially made saws and cut it into blocks. There is a large insulated room with two feet of insulation and a one-foot thick door.
“It’s the most economical refrigeration,” Esch said. “It keeps our milk cold as well.”
On Tuesday morning the shop was packed with shoppers buying melons, beans, baskets, baked goods, cut your own flowers and by 10:30 a.m. the jalapeno bread was already sold out.
The meats are processed in their Smyrna USDA slaughterhouse and stored under a propane deep freeze.
Each morning the farm families bring their items to the market and they take turns clerking, while three managers, Esch, Wilson Hilty and Michael Auker make sure there is a steady supply and that things run smoothly.
This year, they are considering keeping the store open year round, although in previous years, as a farm stand it was open until November, Esch said.
“We work hard to keep as much fresh product out for as long as possible,” Esch said. “We have strong support and interest from the local people.”
The Back 40 Farm Market is open Monday through Friday (closed Thursdays) from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
