COURTESY OF COOKE USA
It’s been 42 years since the first commercial Atlantic salmon farms in Maine were founded in waters leased by the State of Maine in Cobscook Bay just off Eastport’s Moose Island. In that time, salmon aquaculture has evolved and modernized tremendously. Today, aquaculture is an economic engine for Maine and a companion to the state’s heritage fisheries, with salmon aquaculture being a major source of employment for residents of Downeast Maine, and salmon is a dietary staple throughout America, a familiar sight in fresh seafood counters from coast to coast.
Cooke USA is the face of salmon aquaculture in Maine, celebrating its 20th year of business in the state this year. The company’s operations are fully integrated, meaning it is involved in the entire process of growing Atlantic salmon from egg to market.
The company has approximately 200 employees throughout the state and is one of the largest employers in Washington County. Cooke USA operates marine farms in Downeast Maine, a processing plant in Machiasport and three freshwater hatcheries. In addition to its operations, Cooke USA purchases more than $10 million in goods and services from dozens of Maine-based companies annually.
“Cooke, and salmon aquaculture in general, is woven into the fabric of the Washington County economy. Not only does the company provide direct employment to dozens of people in Eastport and throughout Washington County, but it also supports numerous businesses that provide goods and services year-round, helping sustain the region’s ocean-based economy,” said Chris Gardner, executive director of the Eastport Port Authority and chair of the Washington County Commissioners.
Behind the egg-to-market journey are dozens of people who are passionate about aquaculture and earning a living on the water.
A lot of care goes into farming salmon and keeping the animals healthy and vibrant, said Jessica Lindsay, a Cooke USA fish health technician for Cooke USA. It’s a job that incorporates dozens of tasks, and no two days are the same.
“We care deeply for our animals, a lot more than people realize,” she said. “I grew up in Downeast Maine and always loved being on the water. I am also an animal lover. So aquaculture helped me combine my love of the water and animals. I also like the variability of my day-to-day responsibilities, and traveling to different farm sites keeps things from getting stagnant. You are also never done learning at this job.”
Jaelynn Matthews, also a member of the fish health team, echoed Lindsey’s sentiment. “I don’t think people realize that we do as much as we do to make sure our fish stay happy, healthy and as stress-free as possible.”
Being a fish health technician is just one of the responsibilities associated with salmon aquaculture. Hatchery managers and technicians, farm site managers, vessel captains and deckhands, mechanics and fish processing technicians are among jobs necessary in the egg-to-plate journey. And then there are the jobs associated with the goods and services – from fuel to marine supplies to vessel repairs – that Cooke USA purchases from Maine-based companies.
“There are so many people that keep the salmon world spinning,” said Lindsey.
A farmed salmon’s journey begins at a freshwater hatchery. Salmon are anadromous. They are born in freshwater rivers and streams, migrate to the ocean to forage and mature and then return to the same rivers and streams to spawn and start the cycle again.
Aquaculture mimics this lifecycle. At the company’s hatcheries in East Machias, Bingham and Oquossoc, hatchery managers and technicians spawn the mature fish, hatch the eggs and raise the juvenile salmon in freshwater until they are ready to swim in the ocean.
When the fish reach around 150 grams (5.3 ounces), they are delivered to marine farm sites. Cooke USA has four sets of marine farm sites – off Black Island and Swan’s Island and in Eastern Bay, Machias Bay and Cobscook Bay. There, the fish are cared for, with daily feedings, regular check-ups from the fish health team, weekly dives to monitor the fish and regular cleaning of the nets. The farms are routinely audited and certified by third-party organizations, in addition to inspections by state regulators.
Operating marine farms sites also involves co-existing with fishermen, particularly lobstermen, who set traps near the sites. Lobster landings are not negatively impacted by salmon farms. Lindsay took it one step further, elaborating that fishermen regularly help out salmon farmers, and vice versa.
“Fishermen are great assets to us,” she said. “They have maritime knowledge, and their skills are unmatched. So it’s always nice when we can work together. Together, we can provide quality seafood products that our state can be proud of.”
Once they reach market size at around 12 pounds, the fish are harvested and processed at a facility in Machiasport. The fresh salmon is then delivered to customers locally and nationwide.
It takes about three years to grow a salmon, backed by a lot of care and a lot expertise.
“Twenty years ago with the acquisition of Atlantic Salmon of Maine, we aimed to stabilize Maine’s salmon farming industry through improved efficiencies to support Maine’s working waterfront and provide jobs,” said Glenn Cooke, CEO of Cooke Inc. “We have many long-term employees who have been with us from the start, and we thank them for their dedication and are grateful to all those who have joined us over the years to grow a sustainable local business.”
Maintaining the support of the communities in which it operates as well as Maine’s political and business leaders is also key to Cooke USA’s success.
“Maine’s iconic seafood industry is a key part of our state’s heritage and a cornerstone of our economy. For two decades, Cooke USA has been a leader in seafood production in Maine, employing hundreds of people in high-quality, good-paying jobs,” said Maine Governor Janet Mills. “I congratulate Cooke as it marks 20 years in Maine and thank this family-owned business for its extraordinary contributions to the Maine economy.”
“Cooke USA is a valued contributor to Maine’s aquaculture community and seafood economy,” added Sebastian Belle, executive director of the Maine Aquaculture Association.
Giving back to the communities in which it operates is also key to being a good neighbor. Among the causes that Cooke USA has contributed to over the years are the Eastport Salmon & Seafood Festival, Beth C. Wright Cancer Resource Center, Down East Hospice Volunteers, Washington County Food Pantries and Rangeley Lakes Historical Society.
Giving back is clearly in line with Cooke’s mission: “To cultivate the ocean with care, nourish the world, provide for our families, and build stronger communities.”
