Four of us were on the third day of a Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society Machias River expedition. We had just spent the night camping at Holmes Falls and were headed for Little Holmes Falls, a complex and challenging whitewater rapid.
We benefited from sunny skies and mild temperatures for the third consecutive day. While fishing in a pool below the falls, canoeist Rick Farnsworth caught a sizable brook trout. Fried fish would be an appetizer on the evening menu.
The short distance to Little Holmes Falls passed through a narrow impressive sector of cliffs that had the character of a small canyon. Just beyond, we arrived at a wooded island in the center of the river called Dead Man’s Island.
This is an excellent place to stop because it provides an opportunity to investigate the upper falls area while paying a visit to a memorial for Obadiah Hill, a pioneer who died in 1786.
We had a partial view from Dead Man’s Island of the two entrances to the falls, separated by a rocky prominence. The left channel was very difficult to scout and contained holes that could flip your boat. The right passage was a technical rapid that could be closely inspected from rugged terrain on the right.
We chose the right channel, paddled through a short rapid next to Dead Man’s Island and ferried to the right shore to scout.
The decision was a wise one. The narrow entry was partially blocked by a fallen log. Canoeists Rick and Morgan Baxter lined their larger boats over rocks adjacent to the initial pitch.
Ken Gordon and I were able to maneuver around the obstruction with our smaller expedition kayaks and complete the entire falls.
With the difficult cataract behind us, we began an extended stretch of flatwater, benefiting from a tailwind for several miles. After passing the confluence with Old Stream, the river angled southeasterly and we encountered a moderate sea breeze.
The pesky headwind remained for the rest of the day.
We stopped on ledges next to gentle Getchell Rips for lunch. A few more miles of flatwater brought us to Smith Landing, where we bade farewell to Morgan, who needed to return home a day early.
Three remaining Chowderheads persisted into the headwind to Great Falls, the longest, most challenging big-volume rapid on the river. We used the portage trail on the right to access cliffs overlooking the more difficult upper sector.
We studied the falls from the rocky prominence and debated the best route. The collective decision was to skirt large waves and intimidating holes and catch a substantial eddy on river right.
Our plan worked flawlessly. From the eddy, we ferried left through a wave train at the bottom.
The scenic campsite at the foot of the falls is exceptional. With a triumphant descent accomplished, clouds and a few sprinkles didn’t dampen our spirits. We returned on the portage trail to retrieve heavy gear Rick had left behind.
A tarp was erected in anticipation of rain, and the fish was delicious.
Concerns about a change in weather were unnecessary. We awoke the following morning to clear skies and warm temperatures, but no blackflies.
We encountered varying winds during our circuitous flatwater paddle to the old logging village of Whitneyville. Ancient logging booms marked the approach to a technical Class II rapid that passed under a bridge in town. Concerned about the possibility of debris in the falls, we carefully scouted down the steep gradient.
A short section of calm water brought us to a small island with easy rapids on both sides. Beyond, we passed under an old railroad bridge that is now part of the 87-mile Down East Sunrise Trail.
We saw two hikers on the left shore who were doing maintenance on the Machias River Preserve Trail that connects Whitneyville and Machias; a potential adventure for another day.
Munson Pitch, a Class II ledge drop, was next. We navigated the entertaining rapid on the left. Farther down, the river makes a left turn and passes through easy rapids to a steep narrow gorge.
Descending the lengthy stimulating falls that led into the town of Machias was the perfect culmination to another outstanding Machias River expedition.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” narrates five more exciting Maine river trips.
